Photo by Jennifer Best
	Hiking trails at Montana de Oro State Park offer spectacular views, like this one: the sandspit at Montana de Oro State Park, with Morro Bay in the background.

A red-tail hawk floats upon thermals high above Alan Peak, Oats Peak and Valencia Peak, then swoops toward grassland atop the white bluffs of Montana de Oro State Park.

Fifty yards west, a brown pelican glides inches above the Pacific Ocean, watching for fish as waves crash against jagged Monterey Shale jutting out from the sea.

Children hunt for starfish and sea anemones in a tide pool at Quarry Cove. Mountain bikers pedal up Islay Creek Road to the East Boundary Trail, and then back down Bloody Nose Trail to Camp Keep. Horseback riders venture into the oaks and chaparral up Rattlesnake Flats. And seasoned surfers tempt fate at Hazard Canyon Reef.

It’s just another day at Montana de Oro State Park, an 8,000-acre expanse of coastal wilderness, bluffs and beaches laced with trails and campgrounds near the cities of Morro Bay, San Luis Obispo and Los Osos in San Luis Obispo County.

Though easy to reach (take Los Osos Valley Road west from Highway 101 in San Luis Obispo and you run smack into the park) Montana de Oro is off the beaten path. Visitors make it a point to come here to experience the peace and quiet of inland valleys, peaks and meadows or the raucous crashing of waves against sand, rock and bluff.

A Park with a Past
Montana de Oro is about a half-hour drive west of San Luis Obispo, out Los Osos Valley Road. The park sits about 7 miles south of the City of Morro Bay at the southern end of the Morro Bay Estuary. The little town of Los Osos gives way to the park, and its trails, beaches and campgrounds are a favorite with locals and tourists alike.

According to the Natural History Association of San Luis Obispo Coast, the land that now makes up Montana de Oro State Park was used largely for grazing sheep until 1892. Then Alden B. Spooner Jr. leased, and later purchased, the land around Islay Creek.

Among other agricultural uses, he developed a creamery. Goods were transported to and fro via coastal steamers that tied up along the wharf at the southern end of Spooner’s Cove.

His northern neighbor, Alexander S. Hazard, also farmed and ran a dairy. It was Hazard who planted the hundreds of eucalyptus trees still growing along Pecho Valley Road at the north end of the park. Hazard had hoped to market the long straight lumber as the need for timber increased, but the stringy wood was not acceptable.

Irene McAllister, who later owned the land, named it Montana de Oro, Spanish for “Mountain of Gold.” Springtime visitors will see firsthand the bouquet of wildflowers that inspired the name.

In 1965, the state purchased the land for its parks system.

The Spooner’s Cove wharf, warehouses and many of the agricultural buildings are long gone, and much of the land has returned to its natural state. All that remains of the Hazard and Spooner legacies are the trees, skeletons of the Islay Creek barn and milldam, and the Spooner Ranch House, now used as an information center.

Photo by Jennifer Best
A painter tries to capture Spooner's Cove and surrounding bluffs on canvas at Montana de Oro State Park.

A Chance to Experience Nature - Not Glitter
While it is the largest park in the California State Parks system, Montana de Oro offers no gloss, no glitter. The only luxuries afforded by the park are the pit and portable toilets, occasional benches, picnic tables and barbecue stands. While most trails are maintained, many remain relatively rugged, with steep climbs, weather-beaten culverts, and “no-see-um” rocks that can trip all but the most observant hikers.

But the park’s near natural state is part of its raw beauty. Montana de Oro offers spectacular views, whether visitors are interested in the long sand spit that separates Morro Bay from the ocean, the rugged bluffs further south, the wildflowers of inland valleys or the sprawling branches of California Live Oak trees along the slopes.

Wildlife also abounds throughout the park. The hills, valleys and bluffs are home to black-tailed deer, coyote and hawks. The coves and tide pools of the park are places to see dolphins, sea lions and oystercatchers.

The best chance to see inland creatures is during the early morning hours. Take the easy walk along Bluff Trail or head up to one of the peaks. But remember: there’s a reason part of the park is named Rattlesnake Flats: you’re likely to see one. Periodically, the park has been home to California Mountain Lions too.

Even wilder is the surf scene at Hazard Canyon. Experienced surfers may be found at Hazard Reef, but swimming anywhere along the shore of Montana de Oro is not advisable. The water is fraught with heavy currents, the bottom quickly drops to deep water and there are no lifeguards on duty. This is not the place to let your toddlers swim, or to take a dip yourself.

The park information center, which is open weekends throughout the year and daily during summer months, offers protection from the cool coastal breeze that blows nearly constantly off the Pacific. Docents at the center can answer questions about park history and wildlife. Park rangers also offer educational nature talks throughout the summer months.

Getting there:
Montana de Oro is located seven miles south of Morro Bay at the end of Pecho Valley Road. From Morro Bay, take South Bay Boulevard to Los Osos Valley Road. Turn right. Follow the road through Los Osos after which it narrows and becomes Pecho Valley Road.

FYI:
Dogs are not permitted on any of the trails in the park. Camping is allowed only in designated sites. Poison oak flourishes throughout the park. And it’s a good idea to pack a picnic lunch and bring water, as there are no concession stands in the park.

Cost:
There currently is no charge for day use. Camping fees range from $5 to $12. For information about docent-led tours and talks, call the Morro Bay Museum of Natural History at (805) 772-2694.

Jennifer Best is a freelance writer, experienced hiker and new mother based in Santa Maria who likes to take her baby along on all her outdoor trips.

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